Navigating the shoals by B A Bowen Photography

Who says there are no rapids in Florida?  Depending on the water levels….some days this may be true.  But right now with the Withlacoochee River North at a low 40.5 feet, there are rapids and they are ripe! When at low levels, this river is not recommended for inexperienced paddlers.

This past weekend, two friends and I went out for an adventure to explore the Withlacoochee River North on a 12 mile run from Madison Blue Spring to Suwannee River State Park.  The Suwannee River State park sits at the river junction where the Withlacoochee empties into the Suwannee.

Madison Blue Spring run by B A Bowen Photography

The put in at Madison Blue spring is absolutly breathtaking but a bit challenging as navigating stairs and rocks are required.  The park ranger at the spring is friendly, informative and full of entertaining stories.    Like most of Florida’s springs, the water was an icy 74 degrees…that is ‘icy’ for us Floridians but it soon warms up once out on the river.  Just outside of the spring run, we encountered our first rapid. It was fairly easy to navigate as it was small only comprised of a thin line of rocks.  This is going to be fun! I thought to myself.  If the river was one foot higher, the smaller rapids may have been non-existent.  The park ranger did warn us about a significant shoal that caused a 4 foot drop in elevation down river. He insisted we stayed left due to a hole with swirling water that could pull you under and my not let you back out.  We were excited and concerned, but that was eight miles downriver and we had much to encounter before we reached that shoal.  The paddle was quiet and peaceful as the north riverbank abuts the protected lands of the Twin Rivers State forest for the first few miles.  The riverbanks were high and the scenery was lush as the river was lined with towering limestone cliffs, cypress trees, and hardwoods.  A green heron lurks in the branches of a fallen tree as we paddle past.  We hear the balking chirp of a belted kingfisher as he swoops down to the water and back up to hide in the trees.  At approximately 1.5 miles we encounter a pretty little blue hole name Potts Spring.  The ranger shared a story with us about how the Suwannee water management personnel performed a dye test and concluded that Madison Blue Spring was connected to Potts Spring via underground caverns.  Fascinating to see these two springs were connected both above ground by the Withlacoochee River and underground by a cave system.  There was a small viewing platform at Potts Spring but it was 2 feet up in the air due to unseasonably low water levels.

Potts Spring by B A Bowen Photography

On this leisurely paddle I found the river lazy, the current slow, and the paddle downstream easy.  The shallow water was fairly clear with a hint of brown from the tannins produced by the hardwood tree leaves. Slider turtles were sunning on fallen logs while an occasional gar could be seen swimming beneath the water’s surface.  Every half mile or so we would encounter another Belted Kingfisher as this lesser traveled spring fed river is a favorite habitat of this elusive blue bird.

Belted Kingfisher by B A Bowen Photography

Occaisionally we would encounter more rapids, created by the porous limestone riverbed. Most were short stints where the faster flowing water would shoot our vessels between two rock outcroppings. Few were more challenging as they were stretched over longer sections and required more navigation.

Jeanene masters the tubulent waters by B A Bowen Photography

At mile six civilization became evident as we saw more river homes and the waters surface was spotted with little patches of algae.  I surmised the algae was a combination of slow moving waters and wastewater runoff from the human occupants along the river.  That is just my theory from general observation.

At approximately 8 miles we arrived at the large shoal (see photo at beginning of blog).  My heart beats faster on the approach as this one needed some scouting and thinking before entering.  I am excited about testing my skills in the winding trails of whitewater.  Both the left and right side were passable at the current water level but the left side required more paddling skill to maneuver. This could be fun for an experienced paddler who enjoys challenges.  The right side was straight through and best for canoes and longer vessels, although the possibility of sticking  your vessel to a rock is always present.  The swirling hole the ranger warned us about was visible and avoidable but could be a serious threat at higher water levels with a stronger current. This is only my assessment at the water level of 44.5 feet (take at Madison Blue Springs) and conditions are sure to change with the water level.  It is good to read reviews but a final scouting of conditions should always be made prior to entering any rapids.   A more conservative or inexperienced paddler could portage this rapid on the north side of the river, but there is not an official pathway maintained and the terrain is rocky but passable.

At mile 9 there are stairs and a put-in just west of the SR 90 bridge.  After the large shoals the river has two more smaller rapids but the ride is fairly smooth as we neared the Suwannee.  At mile twelve we entered the Suwannee River and veered left happy to see the white sandy shores of the boat ramp.  It was a beautiful day on a beautiful but challenging river here in north Florida.

Map of Withlacoochee River North by B A Bowen Photography

About the Withlacoochee River North:

Beginning near the towns of Tifton and Moultrie in Georgia, Withlacoochee River’s lime stone bed can be dry at times in Georgia due to large sinkholes consuming the water.  It flows through Tift, Cook, Colquitt and Brooks Counties in Georgia and passes through Hamilton and Madison Counties in Florida before emptying into the Suwannee at Suwannee River State Park just west of Live Oak.  The Withlacoochee River North is a designated Florida Paddling Trail and is maintained by the Office of Florida Greenways and Trails.

Click on the slideshow below for more photos of this 12 mile run along the Withlacoochee River North.

Click here to view more photos of the Witlacoochee River South on flickr.

Below is a three minute video of the days paddle for you to enjoy.  Relax and enjoy!

Directions: From CR 476, turn south onto CR 635. After ~1.5 miles, turn right onto SW 90th Ave. Follow brown signs along the forest roads to recreation area. (Forest roads are maintained and drivable) 

GPS Coordinates for Iron Bridge Recreation Area:  N: 28.5927 W: -82.2219

Tidal Flats near Shell Mound by Riverbanksoutdoorstore

I had a great day hiking and exploring the 53,000 acre Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge this past weekend. This refuge was established in 1979 to protect one of the largest undeveloped and most scenic river-delta estuarine systems in the United States. The numerous off-shore islands, salt marshes and tidal creeks create an excellent wildlife habitat.

As I set out to hike the Dennis Creek trail, I am amused at how the Fiddler crabs run abundant as they quickly scatter from my seemingly giant footsteps.  I veer from the main trail to explore the trail created by Fisherman along Dennis Creek.  To my surprise I see several oyster bars and two great white egrets feeding across the creek and a few fishing traps. The marshes explode with color as the lime green of the perennial glasswort and the brown cord grasses contrast with the blue water and sky. I cross one of several boardwalks over a salt flat to an island inundated by pine trees.  This offers a welcome shady relief from the hot sun while day hiking this scenic trail. I notice one tree has a CatFace….a scar cut over 70 years ago to drain the tree of its sap.  I spot a Pileated Woodpecker and pause to watch as he flys from tree to tree in search of insects.  The trail leads me back over the salt marshes of Dennis Creek. Again the view is breathtaking today with the white fluffy clouds hovering over the treeline in the distance.  This side of the trail is lined with hardwoods.  The Red Cedars really stand out from the oaks as they are filled with baby-blue berries.   This trail leads me back to my truck.  A short hike but breathtaking scenery in these untouched lands!  One can only hope these lands are spared from the tragic Gulf oil spill that is haunting the Gulf Coasts……

This refuge was established in 1979 to protect one of the largest undeveloped and most scenic river-delta estuarine systems in the United States. The numerous off-shore islands, salt marshes and tidal creeks create an excellent wildlife habitat.  The refuge is part of the Great Florida Birding Trail and also the FWC Big Bend Saltwater Paddling Trail.  The FWC Paddling trail has maps and GPS coordinates for designated campsites.   For day paddling, there are several Canoe put ins through out the Refuge to allow for paddling shallow salt marshes and along the designated Canoe Trails.

Click here to view more photos of the Lower Suwannee NWR on Flickr.

Guide Books: Hikers Guide to the Sunshine State, Author Sandra Friend

Cotee River boat ramp at Frances Park by Riverbanksoutdoorstore

Saturday was looking bleak for any chances of outdoor adventure as I had to prepare my 2009 Federal tax return. Fortunately, thanks to online software and tax submission, the whole process took about 3 hours. With that I packed up my kayak and headed 2 miles up the road to paddle the Pithlachascotee River.  Also know as “Cotee” River by the locals, is scenic run along James E. Grey Preserve from Frances Park to the Bridge at Rowen Road. This section is part of the Florida Canoe Trail System.

James E Grey Fishing Pier

The scenery at the put-in at Frances Park was breathtaking.   I paused for a moment to take in the blue sky with the white clouds reflecting off the river.  I cringed as my movement added ripples to the perfectly smooth glass-like surface.  I only had to paddle  just as few hundred yard  past homes to arrive at the scenic protected land known as James E. Grey Preserve.  Here I was fortunate to find a Reddish Egret searching along the riverbanks for food.  “What a nice find!” I say to myself as I pause to capture a few photos of this uncommon wading bird.  I paddle on down river relaxing as I take in the scenery.

Cabbage Palms Reflection

Tall Cabbage Palms tower over the river at the peak of an ox-bow river bend.  The spring green colors of the river grasses seemingly glow along the riverbanks.  Two more bends and I have paddled a full “S” and then one-half more.  I hear people talking. They must be the hikers in the preserve.  Just one more bend and I spot the fishing pier jutting out from the James E. Grey Boardwalk.  What a pretty site!  This rustic structure with a tin roof reflecting perfectly off the waters surface.  I appreciate my camera as I am able to capture this moment and take it home with me to share with others.  I continue up this slow moving river and I spot the Yellow Crested Night Heron that I have often seen from the preserve.  He looks at me but does not see me as a threat. He carries on with his business as I watch and follow him for a while.  Another bend and I come upon the James E. Grey canoe launch.  I could stop here and take a break but I am having too much fun!   I know up river from here it is sparsely maintained but I will take my chances with fall trees.  I will turn around when the river tells me too!  From here the river becomes thinner and more shaded, but still just as scenic.  I force my kayak over one log, then another, now I am at the Rowen Bridge. This used to be the old put-in for the Florida Canoe Trail.  I paddle a few hundred yards past the bridge and found a virtually impassable tree.  It is portagable, but my energy level was getting low. Here I decide to turn around.  The paddle back was a nice downstream excursion.  I was lucky to see a bald eagle fly right in front of my kayak as he heard me coming around the ox-bow bend.  I was as startled as much as he.  I watched him fly away to see if there was a nest nearby, but he disappeared into the preserve.

It was a tranquil escape to nature in the middle of bustling suburbia. Just what I needed that day!

Click here to view more photos of the Pithlachascotee River on flickr.

Cotee River Paddle google map by B A Bowen Photography

Hollowed Tree by Riverbanksoutdoorstore

Withlacoochee River Park is a great place for family gatherings or just a nice place to unwind and spend the day!
The Withlacoochee River Park is part of the Green Swamp and sits on the banks of the Withlacoochee River South. There is a canoe launch for paddling and fishing, several picnic areas, primitive campsites through the park, group campsites, a 2.5 mile nature trail that connects with a 5.5 mile Florida Trail hiking spur just outside of the park. The park also provides cultural learning opportunities with an original native American ceremonial hut in a small replica Indian Village complete with archery range. There is also a small replica Florida Cracker village near to group campsite for scouts to play. Be alert for the displays of chainsaw art carved in tree stumps in the forms of statues and chairs that add whimsy to this vast forest.
The park is also handicapped friendly as it provides a paved path throughout the park the parallels the nature trail in several spots. Families also frequent this trail on bicycles for a nice ride through the forest.

Saturday I met my friend Sandra Friend to hike the Withlacoochee River Park for her new edition of 50 Hikes in Central Florida. We began our journey along the West bank of the River where the Florida Trail Association maintains a 5.5 mile spur trail just outside of the park. Although it is not part of the main National Scenic Florida Trail, it is a nice jaunt that leads you along the west flood plain of the river laden with Cypress knees. It drifts slightly west into the sand-hills with resurrection fern covered live oaks and an occasional greenfly orchid. Plants that only thrive in the most humid of conditions! The trail leads you to a primitive campsite and loops back with the option to either enter the park or retrace your steps back along the river. Saturday we felt adventurous and veered into the park to follow 2.2 mile nature trail. This trail was a pleasant trek as it leads you through a diversity of natural Florida habitats. We trekked through an oak hammock boasting mature live oaks with winding twisting arms blanketed underneath with contrasting lime green saw palmettos. The trail then leads you on a boardwalk over a wet prairie currently covered with mustard yellow button flowers and amber colored fall grasses back into a sand-hill habitat with spots of  purple blazing star and puffs of grey deer moss. A sturdy viewing tower sits at the north end of the loop and worth the five storey climb for breathtaking views of the Green Swamp. You can see Cypress domes line the Withlacoochee River shores in the distance. As we continued through the sand-hills the trail crosses the vast wet prairie again over another boardwalk. We came upon a replica Florida cracker village next to a large group campsite with families and young scouting boys full of energy and delight as they played in these historic landmarks. We continued through the village and back on the trail to come upon a native American ceremonial hut with a practice archery range behind it. We revelled in the Indian Village a few moments imagining the lifestyles our predecessors had lived on these lands before us. From here we followed the nature trail back to the picnic area in which we parked our cars.
Withlacoochee River Park is truly an enjoyable place to hike!

Guide Books: 50 Hikes in Central Florida

View more photos of the Withlacoochee River Park