Trail Through the Cypress Strand

It has been a little over a year since I enrolled in the Florida State Forest Trailwalker Program and what a journey it has been for me! After just over a year I had traveled the State with 29 hikes under belt. I just needed one more to officially be considered a Trail Master in the program. Since the timing was right, I decided to travel to the Big Cypress Basin and hike Picayne Strand State Forest on my 45th Birthday! I have always been a little intimidated to hike this forest by myself. Partly because it is in the Everglades and I heard stories of Alligators, Cotton mouths, and the alleged Swamp Ape. I also heard stories of drug runners, poachers, and just plain old Septic Tank trucks emptying their tanks. See, Picayne Strand has historically been a place where evil and corruption reside. It’s lands became infamous for being the largest real estate scam in the 1970’s caused by high pressure salesman selling swamp lots to snowbirds that were virtually impossible to build on. Thus coined the phrase “ I’ll sell you some swampland in Florida!” Unfortunately, the developers had already cut roads and canals, but the state had acquired the lands in 1985 to restore it back to its original habitat.

So on October 28th, 2010, I pushed aside my fears, packed up my truck and headed down to Big Cypress. “How bad can it be?” I would ask myself while driving. “You have been to 17 different forests already, surely it cannot be anything you cannot handle.”

I arrive at the Sabal Palm Trailhead approximately at 11:00 AM relieved to see I was the only vehicle there. I take a moment to look around only to observe a beautiful pine forest. Now the fear is over-taken with feelings of excitement and anticipation. With that I grab a map from the kiosk, grab my pack, set my GPS, and off into the woods I go! Immediately I began noticing the wild flowers lining the trail. Yellow-eyed grass was the most abundant along the trail. Lobella, bay lobella, and flat topped golden rod were also a common site. At approximately one-half mile the trail takes you into a Dwarf Cypress Strand. This was truly a magical place! I drastically slowed my pace there to take in the sites. Walking amongst these beautiful cypress trees with air plants clinging steadfast to their bark was enchanting. The endangered Potbelly air plant seem to be happy and growing abundantly all over. One can see this plant up close, blooming, and in all different sizes. Fuzzy Wuzzy air plants also have their niche. And of course the more common Giant air plants were staking their claim. The trial was dry, but one could see how this Cypress Strand could easily be a swamp walk during the rainy season. Soon I was through the strand and back into the pine forest.

Fuzzy Wuzzy Airplant

Althoug the trail was well marked, I kept close watch on the trail map along with my GPS as I still did not want to get lost in these parts. The lower loop makes a sharp turn east while a forest road keeps heading Southwest. I turn onto this overgrown trail in search of my next junction. I make my way carefully through the tall yellow-eyed grasses that had taken over the trail when I decided to stop for a water break. In my few moments of stillness, I hear a loud noise coming from the heavy brush. Out of curiosity, I stay put and wait. I was not afraid at this moment for I felt like I was seasoned with the wildlife encounters. Anytime I heard that much noise, it had always turned out to be an armadillo. It has been my experience that large 300 lb White-tale bucks travel much quieter than this small armored rodent. The rustling noise gets louder and I have my camera ready with great anticipation of what is to come. Well to my surprise, I see a large Florida Black Bear. I stand perfectly still to observe him and hoping he does not notice me. I am in awe of his sheer size and power. He starts on the trail toward me. He only takes a few steps before he notices this average size hiker in a pink shirt and hat. He does not look upset, concerned, or bothered in the least with my presence. I smoothly put my camera up to my eye and begin shooting photos. Through the eye of the camera lens, I watch him nonchalantly turn south and head back into the forest without a sound. My heart was pounding with excitement! My day could not get any better than this! I believe the forest has given me a Birthday Bear.

Florida Black Bear

I wait a few moments to ensure he traveled a safe distance into the woods. I continue on my journey to connect to the back loop at a boy scout campsite. Here I rest and have lunch on a wobbly but much appreciated picnic table. The trail leads you out to a forest road and then back south to an old logging tram trail. The loop then takes you back east. This trail is overtaken with invasive but very pretty pink Caesar weed. I enjoy the pretty pink flowers but dread them knowing I will be picking their small brown riders off my pants and shoes for hours. The trail is elevated with Cypress trees and hardwoods growing on both sides. Migrating songbirds can be heard in the tree-tops. Soon this trail turns off the tram road into short-lived cypress strand back toward the primitive camp completing the south loop. Once I reach camp, I continue north back on the north loop. The trail soon gives way to a forest road where you have to look hard for the next trail marker. I keep a close eye on my GPS looking for a bailout route in case I miss the turn back into the forest. At last a trail marker, I turn west. This terrain morphs into a wet prairie habitat. Lobella, Bay lobella, showy milkwort, water hyssops and marsh pinks can be seen along the trail. I am delighted to spot an occasional Gumbo Limbo tree along the way. Soon this trail intersects the original trail and I am happy to experience the dwarf cypress strand one last time. Picayne Strand is truly a place like no other in Florida. And I am now a Trail Master.

Click here to view more photos of Picayne Strand on flickr.

Observation deck at Big Cypress Bend by Riverbanksoutdoorstore

After a spending a day hiking and photographing in South Florida, I had just enough daylight left to fit in this small trail.  I came across Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk earlier that day while researching Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park and felt walking a boardwalk into the Strand would be the perfect ending to a great day.

Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk, also referred to as the “Window to Fakahatchee Strand”, is a 1/2 mile boardwalk into a virgin Bald Cypress swamp where you can experience the wild swamps of Florida from a safe dry boardwalk. I was in awe as I strolled past Giant Bald Cypress trees encased by the boardwalk that were easily over 100 years old.  “If only they could talk, what tales would they have to tell about this mystical swamp?” I thought to myself.  I spotted rare air-plants in a hanging garden on several Cypress limbs 20 ft above the boardwalk as well as some at eye level.  I could spend hours in here trying to see everything.  Giant Leather Leaf ferns thriving amongst the Cypress Trees and a Bald Eagles nest can be seen up high in the branches of a dead Cypress tree.  An erie Strangler Fig can be a sobering sight seen growing over the boardwalk as you stroll underneath. Over decades of time this erie plant has slowly squeezed and suffocated its host plant, a bald cypress,  only to grow roots and, for no other reason, to take its place in the wilderness.  My mood lightens as I spot the fallen tree log covered with ferns and epiphytes.  We would not have this beautiful log hosted garden had it not been for the Strangler Fig….the “circle of life” continues on….

The boardwalk is located off US 41 west of SR 29 and is wheelchair accessible with two resting places along the way trek. The Boardwalk ends with a viewing/resting area overlooking a Swamp pond. Take a moment to take in the scene as the tanic waters reflect the pretty bald cypress, swamp ferns, and Giant Alligator Flag outlining the pond. Be still and watch for wading birds and alligators to appear.

100+ year Giant Cypress Tree Duo

Red Shouldered Hawk

Beauty is not without its price, be sure take plenty of mosquito repellent!
This boardwalk is built and maintained by Friends of Fakahatchee Stand, a non-profit, and donations are appreciated.
For more information about the Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk of Fakahatchee Strand contact Friends of Fakahatchee Strand State Preserve.

To view more photos visit Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk on Flickr

Boy holding Alligator at Wooten's

Wooten's Airboat Tour

Wooten’s Airboat Everglades Adventuresoffers the best overall experience of the Florida Everglades.  Wooten’s,  located in the town of Ochopee, FL off US 41, offers an Air-boat tour through the mangroves to see bromelaids, air-plants, alligator, Great Blue Heron and other Florida birds in their natural habitat. The intricate root system of the Mangroves are an important part of the Everglades ecosystem offering erosion protection from waves and hurricanes as well as shelter for fish, crustaceans and shellfish. They also host large variety of organisms, including algae, barnacles, oysters, sponges, and bryozoans.  Mangroves are a unique plant with an ability to actually extract the fresh water from the salt water.  

Alligator on the side of Parking Lot

Wooten's Alligator Show

Along the Air-boat tour, it would be rare not to see an alligator. If you are down in Florida during the cooler months you will probably see an alligator from the parking lot. The staff is so used to living with alligators they do not seem to be alarmed if one is underfoot.  Do not try this at home!

Wooten's Staff w/ Inconspicuous Gator

Wooten’s also offers a Swamp Buggy Ride through the Big Cypress Swamp to see natural flora and fauna of the Everglades such as Strangler Fig Tree, beautiful Orchids, Air-plants, Ferns, Pop Ash, and Willows and wildlife such as bobcats, panthers, snakes, North American crocodiles, alligators, turtles and deer in their natural habitat.  Swamp Buggies were invented in the early 1930′s as a means to hunt and navigate the wetlands prior to the invention of the air-boat and are still commonly used today.

Wooten's Swamp Buggy Bus

Don’t forget to take time to visit the Alligator and Wildlife park.  Wooten’s is a sanctuary for Florida endangered species. They host several endangered American Crocodile and the Florida Panther along with hosting several alligators, a tiger, otters and a large live snake exhibit.  At the back of the park there is a periodic alligator show put on by one of the Wooten’s trained staff.  At the end show the more adventurous visitors can actually hold a small alligator.   To my surprise, the alligator skin is one of the smoothest and softest skins of any reptile.

Totch a Life in the Everglades

Loren “Totch” G. Brown. His father was a skilled fisherman, hunter and gatherer. Totch learned to live off the sea and the land and survival was second nature to him.  Totch’s family lived off the land for many years in the Everglades traveling from one small island to the next. His father was skilled at building shelters and tools.  His mother was a trooper at keeping up camp and caring for small children in this harsh environment.  Sleeping under mosquito nets was second nature to them. Totch tells the tales of the early Everglades before development occurred in Collier County and before it became a National Park.  Not comfortable with civilian life, Totch still made his living skinning gators and selling them.  He spent many months outwitting the Forrest Rangers to hold on to his livelihood.  True stories written in Totch’s natural style and interesting reading for those interested in survival in the Wetlands.    I found this book both educational and intriguing. The stories and photos give a real life view of what life was like in the last frontier of Florida.

About the Author: Barbara is the owner of  an on-line store Riverbanks  Outdoor Store for several years and has frequently engaged in outdoor sports for years including camping, mountain biking, whitewater rating, kayaking, snorkeling, and hiking.    Barbara also hosts a blog Riverbanks Adventure Forum that focuses on product reviews and adventure vacations.