It was a cool foggy morning when I arrived at Leon Sinks Geological Area in the Apalachicola National Forest. It is late March and Spring is making its presence known. The hardwood trees were bursting with lime colored leaves as it was time for the leaves to open up and start a new season. March is also when the Dogwoods light up the forest with their large white flowers and indeed they did here at Leon Sinks.
Leon Sinks is a Geological Park that sits on the Woodville Karst plain that stretches from Tallahassee to the Florida Gulf Coast. Karst is a porous limestone bedrock that was formed from what was once ancient Coral Reefs and old shell deposits. Caves, sinkholes, swales, and underground caverns are common geological features found in Karst limestone. All of these features can be seen when exploring this natural showcase.
Today I had planned to hike the Gum Swamp trail. I was intrigued by the Tupelo Swamp and wanted to experience what it has to offer. As I entered the forest I found myself mesmerized by its beauty. The Dogwood trees were in full bloom and seemed to light up the understory in this shaded forest on a dreary foggy morning. The first feature I came across was gopher sink. Gopher sink is a large sink at the end of a short spur trail with a cave into the side of the terrain. This large arched shaped opening was indeed inviting. I resisted the temptation to enter the cave due to fear of the unknown and out of respect for this wondrous karst feature. I snap a few photos and turn to head back toward the main trail. The walk is not long before I encounter a receding swamp where a collection of large trees with lumpy bases leaning to and fro. The Tupelo, also known as the Gum tree, is the name of this strange tree. I am in awe of their sheer size and admire the reflections off the still swamp waters. I trek a little further and peer through the trees to get a glimpse of the South Swamp. I feel the need to get a closer look and follow a short trail down into the forest of large Gum Trees with wide lumpy buttresses. Too close for comfort a barred owl flies a few branches over but still keeps watch on me as I try to capture the wondrous shapes and sizes of the strange scenery with my camera. I find the swamp a magical place with scenery like no other place I have been. I take my time moving slowly about. I do not wish to leave but I know my time is limited on the trail. Satisfied with my photos, I grab my pack, take one last look at the owl and head back out to the main trail. Not too much further down I find Bear Claw Swamp which filled with much younger and smaller Tupelo Trees. Although this scene is not as majestic as the prior, it holds a beauty all of its own. There is a downed tree that is all torn apart….alas clawed by a bear I see…”Hence the name” as I cannot help but smile.
The trail then leads me out into a forest of tall pines. By now the fog has lifted and the blue sky contrasts against the green needles of these tall beauties. As the trail rounds a corner to head back north, I spot a few Wild Azalea bushes gently peaking out of the saw palmettos. Their pink showy blooms add nice splashes of color in this emerald green forest and I take my time enjoying the view. The trail soon intersects the Crossover trail and the much longer Sinkhole Trail. Having already hike the Sinkhole trail last year and being pressed for time, I chose the crossover trail to complete the loop back. Here I passed a River Rise and River Sink as a stream drops into the stone karst and emerges a few feet on the other side of this natural limestone bridge. It is amazing that water will actually follow a course like this, however sinking rivers are fairly common in northern Florida’s karst regions. I have witnessed the Chipola River sink at Florida Caverns State Park and the Steinhatchee River dip underground on the east side of US 19 only to emerge with a gentle force a few hundred feet west to resume as a flowing river. River sinks will always be a hydraulic wonder to my analytical mind. As I continue down the half mile Cross Over trail I am delighted to see a refurbished boardwalk that passes right through another Gum Swamp. I trek slowly through the swamp taking in their size and curvy trunks. Here I am reminded of childhood Dr Suess Books and feel Theodor Seuss Geisel strange lands may not have been so fictitious after all. Soon the Crossover trail connects back to the East leg of the Gum Swamp trail and I retrace my steps back to the trail-head. Leon Sinks was a wonderful escape in a strange land only 5 miles from the Urban bustle of Tallahassee.
Click here to view more photos of the Gum Swamp Trail on Flickr.
Directions:
From Tallahassee: Head south on Monroe Street. Turn right on Gaile Ave (First traffic light just past Leon County Fair Grounds). Turn left on Crawfordville Highway (Route 61). Continue south on Crawfordville Highway, which turns into US 319. Leon Sinks will be on your right off of Crawfordville Highway (US 319) approximately 5.5 miles from Capital Circle SE (the truck route).
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