Spelunking along the Florida Trail, Citrus County.

While hiking the B Loop in the Citrus Tract of the Withlacoochee State Forest, the terrain drastically changes just past the C-D loop junction. After trekking several miles of hilly pine ridges full of Longleaf pines and blooming wildflowers under wide open blueskies and sunshine, the trail sinks down becoming uneven and dark. The trail had led me into another world with over sized oak trees creating a dense canopy protecting the lush green understory below. The branches were exploding with resurrection ferns while the rocky ground was covered with moisture loving ferns, vines, and an occasional mushroom. As I search for a worn path thru the thick green foilage as my eyes are drawn to a cave opening. The Sandhills of Citrus WMA are known for the karst topography that exists below. I find this scenery truly enchanting as I am drawn to the cave opening carved into a small limestone cliff. I spot an opening low to the ground that could only be entered by crawling. At this moment, I decided I am going inside to explore or spelunk. Spelunking is  a word of Greek origin that means “the art of exploring caves.”  Quickly I search my pack for my backpacking headlamp, push the on button, and strap it around my head. As I am headed for the opening, I cannot control my imagination as visions of Indiana Jones type scenes are flashing through my minds eye. Millipeeds, centipedes, slippery snakes and other creepy crawlers fill my thoughts. I take a moment to relinquish my fears and quickly scoot myself under the limestone into the cave. I breath a sigh of relief as I stand up and look around this narrow small limestone cavern. The walls are bone dry and not a spider, web, or creepy crawly type creature is in sight. The cave is completely desolate from any living organism. I look around and notice light coming in from the top. A few steps to the left and the cave becomes too narrow to stand. As I follow the light from the headlamp up the walls, I soon see a small opening in the cave ceiling. I keep searching the cave ceiling only to see a larger oval shaped opening that leaves and branches can clearly be seen.

6217033411 762c6ea45d z Spelunking along the Florida Trail, Citrus County.

Fallen tree by B A Bowen Photography

Intrigued with these openings, I leave the cave and follow the path up a steep hill to the top of the cave. Here I see a fallen tree that has been uprooted. Either the fallen tree had created the hole in the cave or the weakened cave ceiling caused the tree to fall I surmised. I cannot help but think what intriguing place this is as I continue my journey back down the trail.

Below is a video taken while exploring inside of this cave.

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Scrubby flatwoods of Oscar Scherer State Park is bursting with fall wildflowers.

Oscar Scherer State Park is one of the largest remaining contiguous tracts of Scrubby Flatwoods habitats in Sarasota County. This 1381+ acres of scrub and Pine Flatwoods is home to the endangered Florida Scrub Jay, the only bird that is endemic to Florida. It is also an important habitat for other protected species such as the gopher tortoise, Eastern Indigo snake, and the Eastern diamondback rattlesnake. This habitat is modest as it is not particularly showy, the soil tends to be sandy and the terrain flat.

To get to the 5 mile loop the trail briefly leaves the park and follows the rails-to-trails path for 200 yards north to the entrance of the newer parcel donated by Ellie Scherer. It starts as a scrubby flatwoods habitat with curious Florida scrub jays making their raspy calls.

I am filled with delight as I spot the Florida giant orchid near an aging slash pine. The giant orchid is a terrestrial orchid with modest blooms that thrives in the well drained sandy soils of the scrubs. As you turn north there the habitat turns into hardwood hammock and offers much welcome shade. Cross the bridge at Black creek and the trail winds through a forest of slash pines. The slash pines make an interesting scene with their long needles, clumps of pine cones, and crooked trunks. I cautiously watch for bobcats lurking in the saw palmetto as I follow its tracks along the trail. As I round mile 4 there is a small lake with a wheelchair accessible overlook built for observation. I climb this modest facility and rest on a covered bench for a moment enjoying the sweeping view of the lake and then scurry back down the path.

Here I encounter a gopher tortoise coming at me head on completely unaware of my presence. I try to stay still while desperately feeling for me video cam hanging by a carabiner from the shoulder straps of my day-pack. Soon he notices me and recedes back into his shell. Amused at this slow moving work horse, I continue on with my trek.  See the gopher tortoise is classified as a keystone species that provides benefits in the form of shelter for up to 360 others other species in Florida. Look inside a gopher hole to find other inhabitants such as rattlesnakes, coachwhips, Eastern indigo, Florida Mouse, Burrowing owls and more.

I spot more goldenrod along the trail. I pause to observe the scene for photo angles and I hear a ruffle in the grass. I am taken aback by an eastern indigo snake barreling out of the grasses and raising his head as if to strike all in a moments time. He sees I am not a threat and quickly turns to disappear back into the brush. Soon the loop crosses back over the black creek and I am back in the scrubby flatwoods to complete the loop.

6178010160 130473de7d z Scrubby flatwoods of Oscar Scherer State Park is bursting with fall wildflowers.

Map of Oscar Scherer Yellow Trail by B A Bowen Photography

The Red (2 mile) and Blue (1.5 mile) trails at Oscar Scherer State Park are a nice hike through Scrub Jay habitat as it winds through mesic pine and scrubby flatwoods. Both trails can be accessed east of the parking area near the nature center as they share the same path for the first leg of the loops. As I begin my journey, I encounter another gopher tortoise while he hastily makes his way down a worn path through the grasses to his gopher hole. I take a photo of his footprints left in the sand for future reference.

Soon I am at the intersection where the red and blue trails split apart. I turn left to follow the red trail first. The trail becomes soggy and meadow beauty adds splashes of pink color as it is seen blooming amongst the grasses. Crooked slash pines become more common as the trail turns south. The pines give way to a scrub dominated by saw palmetto with splashes of golden rod blooming up between these fibrous palms. As the loop turns back south, I come upon an island of purple liatris full of activity with several butterflies. Longtailed skippers, Cloudless sulphers, and swallowtails hop from stalk to stalk gathering nectar from the tiny purple blooms. I spend several moments here taking photos and appreciating this natural oasis bursting with color in a normally monochromatic green scrub.

The trail then rounds back east and I soon find the intersection that connects to the blue loop. I follow the blue loop east then south and observe as the mesic flatwoods habitat turns into a scrubby flatwoods dominated by low growing scrub oaks, wax myrtle and blackberry bushes. Out of natural curiosity, the scrub jays perch themselves nearby watching me hike through their territory. In an attempt to put them at ease, I grab my i-phone and play a scrub-jay call for them to hear. They come closer and sit in trees a few feet away. I play the call again and one flies over to sit on my head. Filled with amazement and surprise, I quickly switch from the Audubon Bird app to the camera app and blindly snapped photos trying to capture this wondrous moment of this friendly Jay on my head. After a few moments he flies away and I scroll through my photos happily find a few snapshots that captured the bird.

Iphone photos 2011 087 225x300 Scrubby flatwoods of Oscar Scherer State Park is bursting with fall wildflowers.

Friendly Florida Scrub Jay

Excited I begin to forward the photo in text messages to my best friend and my son. As I am consumed by communicating with my handheld electronic device, an eastern diamondback rattlesnake catches me by surprise as he comes barreling out of the grasses and coils ready to strike. I jump sideways to clear his path as adrenaline shoots through my veins. We are at a stand-off only six feet apart as he sizes me up while in strike mode. I keep one eye on the snake and use the other to work the phone as this was another great photo-op that I did not want to miss. After I capture a few photos on the I-phone, he relaxes and retreats back into the grass from where he came. My heart is pounding as I am thrilled to be hiking in such a wild place!

Eastern diamondback rattler 300x200 Scrubby flatwoods of Oscar Scherer State Park is bursting with fall wildflowers.

Eastern diamondback rattlesnake

From here the trail leads me east where a Rufus-sided towhee flies over and hides in a low growing oak tree. I continue on the trail as it turns briefly south then back west to complete the loop.
Click here to view more photos of Oscar Scherer State Park on flickr.

6177483277 e0ea78a80a z Scrubby flatwoods of Oscar Scherer State Park is bursting with fall wildflowers.

 

 

Recreational Opportunities: Enjoy this natural habitat by hiking/biking 15 miles of trails, canoeing the South Creek, camping, swimming, or enjoying the nature center. Oscar Scherer State Park is located on US 41 in the city of Nokomis.

Address: 

1843 S. Tamiami Trail

Osprey, Florida 34229
(941) 483-5956

 

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Paddle rapids on the Withlacoochee River North at low water!

Who says there are no rapids in Florida?  Depending on the water levels….some days this may be true.  But right now with the Withlacoochee River North at a low 40.5 feet, there are rapids and they are ripe! When at low levels, this river is not recommended for inexperienced paddlers.

This past weekend, two friends and I went out for an adventure to explore the Withlacoochee River North on a 12 mile run from Madison Blue Spring to Suwannee River State Park.  The Suwannee River State park sits at the river junction where the Withlacoochee empties into the Suwannee.

The put in at Madison Blue spring is absolutly breathtaking but a bit challenging as navigating stairs and rocks are required.  The park ranger at the spring is friendly, informative and full of entertaining stories.    Like most of Florida’s springs, the water was an icy 74 degrees…that is ‘icy’ for us Floridians but it soon warms up once out on the river.  Just outside of the spring run, we encountered our first rapid. It was fairly easy to navigate as it was small only comprised of a thin line of rocks.  This is going to be fun! I thought to myself.  If the river was one foot higher, the smaller rapids may have been non-existent.  The park ranger did warn us about a significant shoal that caused a 4 foot drop in elevation down river. He insisted we stayed left due to a hole with swirling water that could pull you under and my not let you back out.  We were excited and concerned, but that was eight miles downriver and we had much to encounter before we reached that shoal.  The paddle was quiet and peaceful as the north riverbank abuts the protected lands of the Twin Rivers State forest for the first few miles.  The riverbanks were high and the scenery was lush as the river was lined with towering limestone cliffs, cypress trees, and hardwoods.  A green heron lurks in the branches of a fallen tree as we paddle past.  We hear the balking chirp of a belted kingfisher as he swoops down to the water and back up to hide in the trees.  At approximately 1.5 miles we encounter a pretty little blue hole name Potts Spring.  The ranger shared a story with us about how the Suwannee water management personnel performed a dye test and concluded that Madison Blue Spring was connected to Potts Spring via underground caverns.  Fascinating to see these two springs were connected both above ground by the Withlacoochee River and underground by a cave system.  There was a small viewing platform at Potts Spring but it was 2 feet up in the air due to unseasonably low water levels.

On this leisurely paddle I found the river lazy, the current slow, and the paddle downstream easy.  The shallow water was fairly clear with a hint of brown from the tannins produced by the hardwood tree leaves. Slider turtles were sunning on fallen logs while an occasional gar could be seen swimming beneath the water’s surface.  Every half mile or so we would encounter another Belted Kingfisher as this lesser traveled spring fed river is a favorite habitat of this elusive blue bird.

Occaisionally we would encounter more rapids, created by the porous limestone riverbed. Most were short stints where the faster flowing water would shoot our vessels between two rock outcroppings. Few were more challenging as they were stretched over longer sections and required more navigation.

At mile six civilization became evident as we saw more river homes and the waters surface was spotted with little patches of algae.  I surmised the algae was a combination of slow moving waters and wastewater runoff from the human occupants along the river.  That is just my theory from general observation.

At approximately 8 miles we arrived at the large shoal (see photo at beginning of blog).  My heart beats faster on the approach as this one needed some scouting and thinking before entering.  I am excited about testing my skills in the winding trails of whitewater.  Both the left and right side were passable at the current water level but the left side required more paddling skill to maneuver. This could be fun for an experienced paddler who enjoys challenges.  The right side was straight through and best for canoes and longer vessels, although the possibility of sticking  your vessel to a rock is always present.  The swirling hole the ranger warned us about was visible and avoidable but could be a serious threat at higher water levels with a stronger current. This is only my assessment at the water level of 44.5 feet (take at Madison Blue Springs) and conditions are sure to change with the water level.  It is good to read reviews but a final scouting of conditions should always be made prior to entering any rapids.   A more conservative or inexperienced paddler could portage this rapid on the north side of the river, but there is not an official pathway maintained and the terrain is rocky but passable.

At mile 9 there are stairs and a put-in just west of the SR 90 bridge.  After the large shoals the river has two more smaller rapids but the ride is fairly smooth as we neared the Suwannee.  At mile twelve we entered the Suwannee River and veered left happy to see the white sandy shores of the boat ramp.  It was a beautiful day on a beautiful but challenging river here in north Florida.

 

About the Withlacoochee River North:

Beginning near the towns of Tifton and Moultrie in Georgia, Withlacoochee River’s lime stone bed can be dry at times in Georgia due to large sinkholes consuming the water.  It flows through Tift, Cook, Colquitt and Brooks Counties in Georgia and passes through Hamilton and Madison Counties in Florida before emptying into the Suwannee at Suwannee River State Park just west of Live Oak.  The Withlacoochee River North is a designated Florida Paddling Trail and is maintained by the Office of Florida Greenways and Trails.

Click on the slideshow below for more photos of this 12 mile run along the Withlacoochee River North.

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Madison Blue Spring State Park is a natural Florida hidden gem!

Many times I have passed Madison Blue Springs on my way to my north Florida property but never took the time to visit. This past weekend, I finally had time to explore inside this spring based park as we were launching our canoes for a day’s paddle along the Withlacoochee River North. There are many springs named ‘Blue Spring’ in Florida and rightly so as the topaz blue waters sparkle like a gemstone in the bright Florida sunlight. Madison Blue Spring has certainly earned its name as its pool of blue waters sit in a pristine setting surrounded by the temperate hardwood forest commonly found in northern Florida. Take in the view from all angles as you follow the path around the rim of the spring. Follow the stairs down to the observation deck to gain a more intimate experience of the spring. The best view is along the southern rim looking down the corridor of cypress and hardwoods that line the spring run as it empties into the Withlacoochee River North

Located approximately 10 miles east of Madison off SR 6 in northern Florida, Madison Blue spring is one of the tributaries for the Withlacoochee River North. This first magnitude spring is one of Florida’s newest State parks. Its clean cool waters make it a popular swimming hole in the summertime. The park also has picnic pavilions, grills, volleyball court, restroom facilities, and fishing areas. The park holds another smaller spring emerging from a funnel of limestone that is popular with experienced divers. This smaller spring is connected to the main spring by a series of caverns that is confined but navigable.
Madison Blue Spring is certainly a worthy visit when in Northern Florida.

Address:
8300 N.E. State Road 6
Lee, Florida 32059
(850) 971-5003

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Paddle Otter Creek for peace and serenity in Natural Florida

Peaceful Otter Creek’s reflective tanic waters offer peace and serenity to a paddler who seeks it. Lying along the Florida Nature Coast, Otter creek is a major tributary feeding into the Waccasassa River and ultimately into Waccasassa Bay preserve. The mouth of the Otter creek lies one mile south of the Waccasassa River Park boat ramp and promises to be a pleasant and easy paddle.

Follow the river as it forks right to enter the creek. Watch for yellow crowned night herons perched in the Cypress trees as they wait patiently for receding tides to expose hoards of fiddler crabs. Listen for the chirping call of an Osprey as you paddle past his large nest of intricately woven branches sitting high up in an old cypress snag. Take a moment to notice the golden sedges that line the waters edge with their delicate reddish blooms swaying softly in the light summer breeze.  Tall cabbage palms and cypress snags make for and interesting foreground against the bright blue sky. As you paddle watch for alligators sunning along the river banks while the bright pink stems of the Pokeweed wave to and fro in the waters gentle current.  Pass an occassional giant hatrack cypress and ponder for  a moment what may have stunted its growth.  Could they be sitting on a bed of rock? A green heron lurks on the shadows on a fallen tree.
5860765731 6d2ee7d0fb z Paddle Otter Creek for peace and serenity in Natural Florida

The stream narrows and becomes less defined as you reach the end of the fourth mile.  The shallow waters are a perfect home to wild waterflowers such as the low growing delicate string lillies, the tall brightly colored cardinal flowers, and the tiny abundant rose pink flowers of the swamp milkweed.

 

Enjoy the journey down Otter Creek with this short two minute video below.

Video by B A Bowen Photography.

 

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